Basic principles: Berets are not cut out of a sheet of cloth and
then shaped. They are actually knitted one at a time on knitting
looms. This round piece of knitting is then felted, i.e. mechanically
worked in a water solution by milling machines (shepherds used a
washing mill). The wool, and the beret’s diameter, shrinks as the
knitting becomes thicker.
Once turned into felt, the berets are
dyed in large vats then individually dried on round moulds which
determine their final size. The beret is first combed (originally
with thistles) then shorn to discard unwanted strands. It is this
combing and shearing process which gives berets their special
feel and texture.
The beret may then be lined, embroidered or flocked
and fitted with a leather headband, badge or ribbon, etc. All of
these are finishing touches. Traditionally, berets were closed by
hand, stitch by stitch whereas now there are machines to do the same
job directly on the knitting loom.
